Adventures

Day 6: A Day of Legends

Larry takes in the surreal nature of bear grass

Holland Lake, MT (19 June 2019)The Lodge was quiet when I awoke just before 5 AM and started about my business of taking care of my painful bottom and packing up my gear. Downstairs a packed breakfast and lunch was sitting on a counter in a paper bag with a name on each. I grabbed the Joey bag and returned to my room to eat breakfast as I packed. Everyone else, Bill, Larry, Mikki and others were doing the same no doubt. On the first trip down to lube the chain and ready the bike for packing most if not all of the bikes were there. By the time I returned to pack the bike and roll away, all the other bikes were gone. Last to leave again, I shook my head in unexpected resignation.

It wasn't long before I came upon Larry and Mikki rolling an easy pace toward Richmond Pass. This was perhaps one of the most beautiful and lovely mornings I would have on the divide. The gravel road was smooth with a bit of single track thrown in to keep it interesting. The bear grass was tall and turned the landscape into a picture from a Dr. Seuss story. We stopped in one place to snack and transfer water where the bear grass was everywhere. I didn't recall any mention of bear grass in my reading about bears. Instead I usually scanned the area for equisetum, otherwise known as horse tail. This plant is a favorite among bears especially in spring when it's young. At over 6,000 feet in June was it still spring? I didn't know. After noticing some equisetum on the side of the trail ahead I was thinking there was no need to linger and encouraged the others to roll even though the horsetail appeared to be tall and undisturbed.

Mikki exits a section of single track on the way to Richmond Pass

As we continued our steady progress uphill, Larry was talking about his previous rides on the route and in this way gave us a preview of what lay ahead. Finally, after three hours of mostly gentle climbing, we arrived at the pass with its expansive view and wonderful morning air. It was there I devoured the first of two peanut butter and jelly sandwiches along with chips loving packed for me by the folks at Holland Lake Lodge. I didn't know it at the time but this moment would haunt me over the next two days.

Larry and Mikki seemed to be as delighted as I felt and after a photo or two we headed out to the single track downhill awaiting us in this vast region of the Flathead National Forest. It was a narrow, winding gravel and dirt track that drew us down quickly off Richmond Pass. It was exactly the sort of situation that claimed the life of a forest service officer in 2016. The final incident report indicated that Brad Treat was 38 years old when he collided with a grizzly bear while riding his mountain bike in the Flathead National Forest. He was reportedly riding downhill at 20 to 25 miles an hour. Initial reports of this incident stated that the bear knocked Brad from his bike and made no mention of a collision.

Larry at the top of Richmond Pass

I yelled "hey" loudly and often as my bike bounced down the narrow single track cutting through tall brush at high speed. It might be the most improbable why to die but getting killed by a bear because you were unable to stop before slamming into her was a recognizable possibility at that moment. Despite the risk, this stretch of single track was fun and included few rough spots to negotiate. As the bike bounced down the track an item suddenly leapt out of the accessory back attached to the handlebar bag. Clamping the brakes, I skidded to a stop on some loose gravel. Immediately, I swung my head around to be sure that neither Mikki nor Larry was about to slam into me from behind. Fortunately, I was able to reclaim the liberated hand santizer and tighten the bag before they arrived. It was a scary yet wonderful experience and I would do it again. Perhaps not at dusk, dawn or in the dark of night as some of the riders ahead must have done.

Worry set in as we started rolling along on smooth roads. That peanut butter and jelly sandwich consumed earlier was unusually good. Was it the mountain air, oh no -- was it strawberry preserves?! My allergy to strawberries has never manifested in a life-threatening way but still had the potential to end my ride. Fortunately, over the next 48 hours I experienced only minor symptoms perhaps owing to the fact it's been a long time between exposures.

Ovando was famous among Tour Divide racers. Ovando was a great place to stay or refuel but it owes it's fame to Kathy, the proprietor of the Blackfoot Angler. She chronicles every rider to pass through this small mountain town. When I arrived, a fierce cross-wind blew, noisily flapping the American flag atop the sign welcoming visitors to Ovando. Kathy greeted me warmly, as she must have greeted the hundred or so racers she has seen over the past few days. The Blackfoot Angler was a fly shop but there I was able to buy chain lube because Kathy stocks the basics for the Tour Divide and Great Divide cyclists that pass through town. Ovando's few businesses were clustered on a single street. After promising Kathy I would not leave town without her getting a picture of me, I headed to the restaurant.

After lunch and somewhat sadly, I was treated to talking to Kirra from Australia who was taking time off the bike in Ovando. Her right ankle looked to be three times it's normal size as she hobbled out of the silver covered wagon where she was napping. Kirra and I have a common friend and have exchanged a couple of messages on Facebook but this was our first meeting. She was using her training and racing the Tour Divide as way to raise funds for Parkinson research and in the end donated more than $2,000 dollars. Here in Ovando she was hoping some rest would allow her to continue the race but not long after we talked, she posted on Facebook that she decided to quit and tour the area by car.

After photos, Larry, Mikki and I headed off toward Huckleberry Pass and the town of Lincoln beyond. After a short break at the top of the pass I decided to roll on down instead of waiting for Mikki and Larry. I generally stop more frequently than they do so I expected I would see them before we hit Lincoln. That didn't happen but I came upon Hal Russel instead. Hal is 70 years old and was on his way to complete his sixth Tour Divide. He called this his Farewell Tour Divide and because of a health condition, he was competing against doctors orders. I introduced myself and he returned an infectious smile.

Day 6 Profile

Today was indeed a day of legends. First we experienced the legendary Richmond Pass with it's frigteningly fast and wonderful downhill on a rocky single track. We also had the pleasure of meeting Kathy Schoendoerfer and Hal Russel. For me, meeting these two imparted a renewed enthusiasm for the Tour Divide. Finally, I was disappointed to not reconnect with my legendary riding buddies, Larry and Mikki in Lincoln. Nevertheless a wonderfully restful evening was spent eating, taking care of the bike and my bottom.

On to Day 7