Adventures

Day 10: Rippin' to Lima

John captures a photo of the two us

Photo courtesy of John Schilling. See John Schilling's blog, day 10.

Polaris, MT (23 June 2019)Low dark clouds foretold our potential doom, as we pedaled away from the Monata High Country Lodge. For mile traveled, this was one of the flatter days on the Tour Divide. With only one gradual 30 mile climb between the lodge and Lima, we should have been relaxed and happy but there was a nervous dread among us. That dread took the form of the Old Bannack road.

Much has been written about the Old Bannack road, specifically about the mud. A friend of mine and his wife found they were unable to walk and roll their bikes along the road due to this type of thick sticky mud, which has often been compared to peanut butter. The mud would keep the wheels from turning by filling all the spaces between the wheels and bike frame, effectively gluing the wheels in place. Others have had derailleurs ruined by attempting to ride when the chain gets glued in placed and the force of the turning the pedals bends or rips the derailleur apart. I've had two derailleurs ripped apart during cyclocross races so I'm very aware of how quickly and easily this can happen.

Left to right, the author, Bill and Mark

Photo courtesy of John Schilling. See John Schilling's blog, day 10.

When we arrived at the start of the bike-eating monster known as the Old Bannack road, Mark remarked about the dry gravel and the threat of rain. The recent rain in the area and the few drops that fell as we approached did not leave the gravel wet. We hoped our luck would hold and the surface would remain dry for the next 6 to 10 miles. I said, "let's ride!" and we picked up our pace.

Left to right, Sam, Mikki, Jorgen, Larry and Bill

The sage brush and grassland that stretched out before us was bounded by a ghostly outline of distant mountains. Cattle dotted the fields and the road ahead. The clouds still hung low but blue cracks were forming in the gray ceiling above. We rolled along and soon realized our dread was misplaced, the rain would not come and for the first morning in days, I rode with my rain jacket stored. The Old Bannack Road monster slumbered while we glided across his face.

As we started a slight rise, a rider appeared ahead -- it was John Schilling. The four of us, John, Bill, Mark and I, stopped and had a bite to eat at the side of the road. The air was pleasant and we were relaxed as we ate and talked about our good fortune. Low mountains topped with a glimmer of fresh snow hugged the broad valley of grass and brush around us.

Not long after we rolled away from snack time, Sam caught us and rolled past with a greeting. Sam was biking from Alaska to the tip of South America and was riding with Jorgen when I met him yesterday. His tires looked skinny next to our mountain bike tries. He's a strong rider and he smiled broadly has he continued on his way. His bike was loaded down with traditional bike touring racks and bags. Our bikes carried modern bikepacking bags which don't require the extra weight of a rack and are more aerodynamic. Despite this, Sam effortlessly left us behind. Not long after Sam disappeared from view, Jorgen came rolling past. I still wonder how it all ended up for those two young men.

Jorgen seen here near the high point of the day's ride

Mikki, Larry, Bill, Mark and I were all riding in proximity as we came to a short climb. Jorgen and Sam were taking pictures of us and a we put on a show by pretending to sprint as we crested the rise in turn. We all took a break at the sign for the Old Bannack Road and talked about our journeys. These guys were full of life and infused our group with a joy we would carry with us the rest of the day.

The distant hills are no longer ghostly and seem to close in upon us. Despite this, the road started its 40 mile downward slant toward Lima, our destination for the day. Rocks protruded from both sides of the road and a deep orange lichen clung to the rock in places making it look like rusted ore. Mikki was encouraged to touch it and he said it was rough and hard. The road was smooth as it stretched out in front of us. The five of us were becoming playful as the downward incline continued. Mikki put in an effort and it was fun giving chase. Others would similarly, playfully, go ahead and fall back periodically.

Nathan suddenly appeared, ripping through our group with haste. I met Nathan at Holland Lake Lodge. Nathan was riding the Tour Divide with his friend Joe but Nathan didn't sign up so he was not listed on the website (TrackLeaders.com). He's young and seemed to really enjoy the ride. His parents, I think, followed his progress in a camper where he sometimes spent the night. He was really moving and I felt a frisky urge to chase. Jokingly, I told Mark I'm going after him. My legs apparently didn't get the joke because before too long my pace increased and what appeared to be a futile chase began.

Leaning down low over the handlebars, I grabbed onto the bags strapped to the front of my bike. Thus began a ten minute time trial effort on a gravel road snaking its way through an ever-narrowing valley enclosed by rock walls. Pock marks in the rock told of the time when a large river flowed and cut the path through these low hills to form the canyon road we traveled. Where the hills sloped more gently, grasses and scrubs hid the rocky soil from view. Just ahead trees appeared on the upper slopes of the hills. Sections of loose rocks dripped down from spires of rock above and lined the road in long stretches. The time trial effort continued as the road continued its downward course through the rock-walled canyon.

Mikki's bike provides contrast for the rust orange lichen growing on the rocks

The effort eased to negotiate an S-curve and I suddenly felt overwhelmed by the futility of my effort. Perhaps Nathan felt this too because he came into view when S-curve spit me out onto a long stretch of straight road poking through a broad valley of grassland. Shockingly, after resuming an increased effort for a few minutes, the catch was made. Nathan told me he was enjoying riding the Tour Divide route very much and planned to return to race it. He said he learned a lot. It was also revealed that Joe was taking some time off but hoped to resume soon. Nathan said it was tricky riding with Joe because it was easy for the two of them to get carried away, expending too much energy in the process. This reminded me of the first day of the divide when the three of us had fun playing on the rollers that came after Elk pass, although I didn't know it was them at the time.

The sky darkened and the smell of rain was in the air when I reached the highway into Lima. Propelled by the joy the day, the time trial position on the bike was resumed and it was so resolved, I would beat the rain to Lima.

Sam passing our group

Photo courtesy of John Schilling. See John Schilling's blog, day 10.

The first stop in Lima was Jen's diner, where the bike was left where the others might see. A couple of hours were spent at the diner, eating and relaxing. While I ate, a light rain fell and ended without me even knowing. The others started to trickle in after securing a room for the night. At one point I ran across the street to do the same and came back for dessert of pie and milk. John Schilling arrived and I was interested to learn he was continuing on past Lima. He ended up camping on the side of the road, miles and hours later. Everyone else seemed tired and it wasn't long before I was out for the night.

Lima became a crossroads of sorts. Sam stopped here on his way to South America as did Jorgen. It was my understanding that these two young men met in Canada and that Sam was on a mission to reach the tip of South America whereas Jorgen's plans were less well defined. The two young women from Switzerland I met yesterday were also stopped here for the night. Perhaps the mission to South America gained some strength today, for a few more days at least. Nearly everyone in our group, Bill, Larry, Mark, and Mikki, checked into the motel for the night. John Schilling enjoyed a meal with us and pressed on. That was the last time I saw Jorgen, Sam and the Swiss. I didn't see Nathan in Lima and guessed he was staying with his folks in their camper.

Sam and Mikki

While at the diner, Jen took great care of me. She made sure there was plenty to eat and even called the motel across the road to be sure they had a room for me before I headed over. These small owner-run places along the Tour Divide route are wonderful. The people work hard and are always friendly and helpful. Jen was completely tolerant and even attentive to our table with people coming and going, all at different stages in their meals. It was the perfect way to end another fun day while moving another 100 miles closer to Mexico.

Elevation Profile for Day 10

On to Day 11