Welcome to Bear Country
Glacier National Park

There is a preoccupation with bears near Glacier Park.  There are also occupations based on this preoccupation.  In Coram, Montana, which is near West Glacier, Russell Kilpatrick runs a drive through bear park.  The sign out front says you can view grizzly bears from your cars.  It also says that motorcycles and soft-topped automobiles are not allowed.  I'm guessing you'd want to keep your windows rolled up.  The Hungry Horse News, a local paper, reports that the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife, and Parks (FWP) is suing Kilpatrick and has revoked his zoo license.  In true Montana fashion, Kilpatrick has refused to recognize FWP's authority.

Also on the front page of the Hungry Horse, was the story of a Helena woman who was charged by a bear.  She repelled the attack with an expired can of bear pepper spray.

There is no place you can turn in the towns near Glacier without seeing the image of bears.  Mostly griz but there are lots of images of black bears as well.  Usually it is a large grizzly on the attack.  Get your grizzly bear tee shirts and coffee mugs here.

No doubt this is because a lot of people come to this park to see bears.  And there's absolutely no doubt that you've got a good chance of seeing a bear at least this time of year.  I've now seen three black bears and two grizzlies.  Every sighting is thrilling as was the views of the mountain goats and the slap of a beavers tail as I cycled by.  Today I saw three golden eagles playing with each other in the air just above and to the left of the road I was traveling.  It's also amazing that wildflowers that in Wisconsin start to bloom in May are just now blooming here in northern Montana in August.

However thrilling it might be to see lupines flowering in August, the most thrilling experience for me was sharing the road with a black bear.  I was climbing, moving slowly, and upon rounding a bend, I heard the crack of a branch breaking.  When I looked up it was into the face of black bear with it's forelegs on the road.  We each seemed to pause, not knowing what to do, and then we both continued so that when I passed the bear it is fully on the road in the opposite lane.  I have to admit, I put on a good fifty feet before I looked back to see only a car approaching.  This sighting made the trip on Going to the Sun Highway over Logan Pass a once in a life time experience.

I would share the road with another black bear.  This time it was a cub and it entered the road ahead of me on the right and ran away quickly as soon as it saw me.

I would later see a grizzly and a black bear along the road to Many Glacier Hotel.  There on the road were about 20 tourists watching these bears forage for berries on the hillside.  My second and favorite sighting of a grizzly came while I was kayaking.  I was drifting with the wind on Swiftcurrent Lake, exploring the shoreline opposite the hotel.  I heard something move in the brush and used my paddle to get a better view.  Seeing nothing, I continued to drift until I was caught by the inclination to turn the boat so the I could look behind.  When I looked back, I saw a large grizzly with its forelegs planted at the waters edge and its head turned to watch me drift on.  When I used my paddle to hold my position, the big bear slowly turned away and disappeared into the bush.  I have to admit to keeping my distance from the shoreline after that.  And another thing.  I've now taken to singing when I'm on a lonely road.

Just before entering Glacier by bicycle I took a raft trip that took me along it's southern edge on the middle fork of the Flathead River. Arriving at Glacier by bicycle as strong winds blow across McDonald Lake toward my camp for the night at Apgar.
Wind causes waves to crash on the pear. This picture was taken shortly after sharing the road with a black bear.
The climb to Logan Pass on Going to the Sun road was a once in a life time experience for me.  I had a great biking experience, fantastic views, friendly motorists and a close encounter with a bear.

Looking up from where the photo on the right was taken, a mountain goat was seen standing sentry on a rock high above.  Just beyond this point and below the level of the road, a group of sheep were seen grazing on some bright green grasses.

The end of a wonderful climb. The view from the Red Eagle Motel  in St. Mary.
Bears are used to promote absolutely everything. The restaurant inside the historic Many Glacier Hotel.
The National Parks are incredible and have been the highlight of my tour thus far.  I can tell that Pat and I will be visiting Glacier some time soon. -joe, jking@mailbag.com 

Q. How can you tell Black Bear droppings from Grizzly Bear droppings?

A. Grizzly droppings contain bells and smell like pepper spray.

Part of the wonderful view from the Many Glacier Hotel. More photos from Glacier & Waterton National Parks