Adventures

Day 9: Party Time in the Montana High Country

The view from atop Fleecer Ridge

Butte, MT (22 June 2019)Spirits were high as Mikki, Larry and I enjoyed breakfast together. Having not studied the route, conversion revealed we were targeting either camping or stopping at the Montana High Country Lodge. I was immediately set on the later because I recalled this was a special stop for Divide racers. Today was also the day we crossed Fleecer Ridge which is one of most talked and written about features of the Tour Divide route.

The guys were long gone by the time I got packed and rolled out of town. Alone on the road with traffic in Montana was not my favorite place to be but I was fine. Unfortunately, about a month after I cycled this road, a man was killed. While some blamed the road conditions and circumstance for the death of Randal Samstag, I could not (see sidebar). What is it that prevents motorists from waiting until they know there's no oncoming traffic before trying to overtake cyclists? It's not okay that the motorist failed to do this. It's not okay that we except this and call what happened an accident. When you overtake a vulnerable road user without knowing it's safe to do so and kill them, that's called negligence. By failing to accept this as negligence, society has helped create two tragedies. In addition to the loss of Randal, the 84 year old driver that hit him has to live with that fact. We all have a responsibility here to step up to save lives and keep others from living with such guilt. We can do this by setting a good example when we drive and by ending the excuses for these senseless acts of negligence.

Fortunately for me, or perhaps because of my heightened awareness of Montana motorists, my time on this 2.5 mile stretch of road was without incident. The Tour Divide route turned off highway 2 onto a gravel road and set into motion one of the very best days of my Tour Divide. It was cold in the morning but the clouds were starting to break up and the climbing was good. Mid-morning and after 2,500 feet were climbed, Bill was spotted, sitting by the side of the road. I joined him for a late second breakfast by breaking into a burrito. It tasted like the best burrito ever which is often how food tastes when your body craves calories. Bill was in a good mood and nervously looking forward to Fleecer Ridge in the same way we all look forward to the terrifying features of the Tour Divide.

Not long after talking to Bill, I came upon Jorgen and Sam. Jorgen was from Belgium and they were biking from Alaska to the tip of South America in Argentina. We hit a fast downhill and, unexpectedly, there were several more cyclists ripping down the gravel road ahead. We were all headed toward the frontage road for Interstate Highway 15. When the gravel ended and the pavement began I came upon Larry and Mikki but had too much excitement running through my legs to chat. Perhaps it was the odd collection of Tour Divide racers and touring cyclists but it felt joyous, briskly rolling along on the pavement of that frontage road.

We turned off the pavement onto a rain soaked gravel road. This gravel marked the beginning of the climb to Fleecer Ridge. Despite the wet, the gravel was firm and did not impede progress as it took us from open brush and grazing land into a deeply forested hillside of tall green pine. Fleecer Ridge is not a famous climb on the Tour Divide. It's known for an incredibly steep and rocky descent. Which is a shame really, because the climb is absolutely wonderful as it winds through a rich pine forest leading to a open green meadow with panoramic views in all directions.

Larry and Mikki on the last pitch before the top of Fleecer Ridge

My climbing legs felt good and after about 2 hours of climbing, the climb gave way to a wonderfully green meadow and level ground. The road ended here and a double track continued our route up to the top of a ridge. I stopped to take a picture and wanted to eat lunch badly but upon surveying the steepness of the final pitch, decided the top of the ridge would make a better place for a picnic and digestion. As the steep climb started it was readily apparent that it was barely rideable, placing me on the very edge of my ability. The smallest obstacles required a burst of effort just to remain upright and inching forward. The dirt was moist and tacky which helped keep my rear wheel from slipping and no effort was spared as I pushed against the grade. The instant the top of the ridge was attained the bike was dropped and my body was exhustedly thrown to the ground, still panting wildly from the effort.

How I loved that final climb to the top of the ridge. Perhaps that wasn't the best use of my energy with respect to a 2,700 mile adventure but it certainly was in the moment! This stands out as one of my favorite moments of the Tour Divide. Whereas the downhill that made Fleecer Ridge famous was just something to survive.

It was time to enjoy lunch and I quickly polished off the burrito with some potato chips. From the top of Fleecer Ridge there was a long view of tree covered mountains in every direction. The sky was cloudy and the ground was soft and dry. The new grass was short and bright green with the dead remnants of grass sticking out in patches like skeletons left by last year's growing season. I lingered knowing Mikki, Larry and the others would soon arrive and enjoyed the thought of attempting the Fleecer Ridge downhill together.

The Fleecer Ridge descent has been ridden but most people walk down it. I started riding down and, like most others, stopped when it appeared the chance of catastrophe seemed likely. Even walking down with the bike, hands on brakes, was difficult. Larry was ahead and I heard him yell up at me, finally realizing he was pointing to a better way down. Leaving the loose rocks for a parallel dirt track might have saved me from disaster, thanks to Larry.

We headed down the mountain toward Wise River and more cyclists appeared. There was an organized road bike ride with aid stations which made the area around Wise River busy with bikes. Seeing all these cyclists today felt strange after several days of seeing only the same few cyclists each day. Wise River is a small place but today it offered something vitally important, a second lunch.

The Wise River Club included a bar and restaurant. We all sat around a large table where I learned that Bill and Larry are Ironman triathletes. If memory serves, Larry even competed in Kona. They had a lot to share not the least of which was hip replacement surgery. I was also amazed at how tough such athletes are and also amazed by the technology that can keep them going so well that an extreme event such as the Tour Divide can be contemplated and even completed.

Wait! What, was that Mark? I was so happy and surprised to see Mark Carter who was last seen on day three of the tour. I let him know we were leaving for the Montana High Country Lodge soon and hoped he could join us. This tour divide thing was turning into a rolling party!

Another view from atop Fleecer Ridge

We had a crew heading out from Wise River south on paved highways all the way to the High Country Lodge. Mark, Bill, Mikki, Larry and I left Wise River more or less together. Riding with a group should be safer on the roads than riding alone, especially in Montana but we also had very little traffic and long sight lines. I continued to feel good and without trying, pedaled ahead of the group. Where the final climb of the day started to get serious, I came upon two young women in cycling kits looking to set up camp in a small park on the side of the road. I stopped and discovered they were from Switzerland and biking on the Great Divide route for the summer. In a few days they planned to bicycle west off the route to San Diego from where, I assumed, they would fly home. They looked to be college age. Jokingly I asked, "you're not stopping for day already, are you?" Perhaps they needed that push to make a decision because, almost immediately, they decided to join me on the climb.

The top of the final climb of the day was the perfect excuse to stop to eat and take in the view. After waving goodbye to the Swiss, it wasn't long before someone from the party behind topped the climb. With Bill in sight, the roll down the hill to the Montana High Country Lodge was easily accomplished. On the way down a large white truck passed by, it blew it's horn and gave me the entire right lane. When I arrived at the lodge I was greeted by the owner, Russ, who let me know that it was him in the truck, having just returned from a fishing trip.

Final picnic stop atop Comet Ridge at 7,649 feet

For 12 years the Montana High Country Lodge has provided riders one of the most iconic stops on the Tour Divide. When racers arrive, they sign in and Russ and Karen have kept the boards from previous years. Some racers just stop to refuel and others stop for the night. Others, such as John Schilling, hung out all day at the lodge for some recovery. Justin who, I met on day 2, stopped here and pressed on instead of staying the night. The High Country Lodge was set up to cater to Tour Divide racers and Great Divide riders. Karen and Russ are so extremely attentive to the needs of the cyclists, I felt like a pampered Tour de France rider. Immediately upon arrival, I was offered something to eat and then lodging. After a shower there was dinner and in the morning breakfast and a lunch packed to go.

Russ and Karen follow the riders and I got the impression Russ thought I was sandbagging. He took me aside and suggested that I should not be stopping so early and that now is a good time to start putting in long mileage days. I'm sure he's right but while I am part of a race, racing was not my focus. These last few days have been great, providing a mix of solo and group riding with ample helpings of good company, joyous climbs, majestic mountain vistas and green valleys. My focus was on experiencing more of this -- pretty please.

Bill atop Comet Ridge just before dropping down to the Montana High Country Lodge

Elevation Profile for Day 9

On to Day 10